Night + Market

If Jet Tila’s book is the practical weeknight guide, Night + Market is the party. Kris Yenbamroong runs some of the most celebrated Thai restaurants in Los Angeles, and his cookbook captures the spirit of “LA Thai,” a style that respects traditional recipes while happily fusing them with whatever tastes good.

Why Start Here

Yenbamroong grew up eating his mother’s Thai cooking in LA and trained in professional kitchens before opening Night + Market on the Sunset Strip. The book reflects that dual education. You get traditional “grandma” dishes like pad see ew and fish curry noodles alongside wild fusion creations: grilled catfish tamales, Isaan salmon ceviche, and uni garlic fried rice.

What sets this apart from other fusion cookbooks is Yenbamroong’s refusal to be precious about boundaries. He treats Thai flavors as a starting point rather than a rulebook, and the results are bold, loud, and deeply satisfying. The book also devotes serious attention to drinking, with sections on natural wine pairings and cocktails designed to go with aggressively seasoned food.

The recipes are more involved than Tila’s and assume a bit more kitchen confidence. Some require specialty ingredients or techniques that take practice. But if you already feel comfortable cooking Asian food and want to push into more creative territory, this is where to go next.

What to Expect

A substantial book at 320 pages with vibrant photography and a voice that feels like hanging out at a restaurant after hours. The difficulty is moderate: some dishes come together quickly, while others require marinating, grilling, or balancing several components. Yenbamroong writes with infectious energy, and even the headnotes are entertaining. This is a cookbook for people who want to cook food that makes their friends want to come over.